Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
